CHICAGO

Welcome to the "Windy City" where turn-of-the-century landmarks stand shoulder to shoulder with tomorrow's architecture. It was here the skyscraper was born and three of the world's five tallest buildings crown the famous Chicago skyline. "Chicago is the great American city", wrote Norman Mailer twenty years ago. The city has given birth to such all-American classics as McDonalds, Sears, Juicy Fruit Gum, Walt Disney and Playboy's Hugh Hefner.

There is an old saying in Chicago that the Swedes built it, the Jews own it and the Irish are destroying it. Indeed, at the turn of the century, Swedes were specified in employment ads because they were known to be among the most trusted immigrants passing through or staying on in this gateway to the rich farming lands of the Upper Mississippi Valley. Even today there are Swedish names everywhere you go and you are constantly reminded of the fact that Chicago once had the largest Swedish population of any city besides Stockholm.

ANDERSONVILLE
Charlie Chaplin probably learned a bit of Swedish. His first films were made in Bunko Andersson's SMS-Studios in Andersonville in the '20s. At this time everything in this northern part of Chicago was Swedish. Swedish was the language most widely used, especially in the construction business. Even today, many a Swedish visitor must wonder if he somehow is not back in Sweden. The yellow and blue banners say "Välkommen" as you enter Andersonville and welcome you do feel. The blocks around Foster and Clark still have more Swedish businesses per square foot than any other place in North America.

Paul Anderson was a Norwegian clergyman in Chicago in the 1870s (Norway belonged to Sweden at this time) and the central figure in the Swedish community that settled down here and around Chicago Avenue after the Great Fire ravaged the central Old Swede Town in 1871. However at this very spot there had originally been the farm of John Andersson so it is still debated whether the name Andersonville did not have more to do with this fact.

Today you have to try and picture the present Community Bank of Edgewater (5340 N. Clark St.) as Walter Larson's bank. AP Submarines across the street was Mom's bageri. Hedströms skoaffär next door went out of business over ten years ago and is now full of toys. Simon's Swedish Bar that opened at 5210 N. Clark is still there looking very much like it did when Simon Lundberg opened it just after the prohibition. Just the murals by Dalecarlian artist Axel Olsson are a worth a visit. Where the Seaburg (Sjöberg - another Swede) juke box is now, Simon opened his booth to cash his patrons' cheques on Friday afternoons before their wives could get hold of them. Simon's son Ray now runs the bar. Norling's Jeweller across the road is from Dalsland but Eriksson's jeweller is nowadays Korean.

VIKING SHIP
In 1893 Chicago showed off its progress and wealth with a world exposition devoted to the spirit of exploration and discovery. The most exciting guest was a replica of the Gokstad Viking ship that sailed all the way from Bergen in Norway to the exposition in Chicago. Captain Magnus Andersen, merchant, newspaperman and competent yachtsman had for long dreamed of building a Viking ship and sailing it to North America to once and for all eradicate any doubt about the Vikings making the transatlantic voyage in such a ship. The ship took half a year to construct and 28 days to cross the Atlantic. After reaching Newfoundland, Captain Andersen and his crew of eleven continued the 1 500 miles inland to Lake Michigan where crowds of curious, cheering people lined the shore to greet the amazing ship. Many million visitors saw the "Viking" at the Columbian Exposition. Now the Viking Ship Restoration Committee wants to restore the remains of the ship. Viking Ship Restoration Committee, 518 Davis St., Evanston,11160201. Phone: 312-492-1829.

WRIGLEY BUILDING
One of the most beautiful skyscrapers in Chicago is the gleaming white Wrigley Building (Juicy Fruit) on the city's "Magnificent Mile". Designed by architects Graham Anderson, Probst & White, it is an American adaptation of the French Renaissance style, modelled after the Giraldo Tower in Seville in Spain. Completed in 1921, it was one of the masterpieces of Swedish builder Anders Landquist or Andrew I,anquist. Already in 1891 he had erected the first real skyscraper, the Monon Building, that no longer exists.

NYBERG
Have you ever seen a Nyberg car? It was advertised as “A Master Mechanic’s Masterpiece. There no better construction - there is no better car. The reason why you do not have one, is because you do not know it". In the beginning of the century there were a lot of different Nyberg automobile, truck and fire engine models. Engineering wizard Henry Nyberg, born in Gotland, even entered a race car in the Indianapolis 500 race. Nyberg started manufacturing his cars in Chicago in 1903 and later on there were Nyberg plants also in Anderson, Indiana and Chattanooga, Tennessee (where a Nyberg car is displayed at the Coker Tire Company). Henry Nyberg was one of the founders of the Swedish Engineers Society in Chicago and in 1908-9, its first president. He sold his factories in 1913, set up new ones in Canada and later on in England, before retiring on the Kälkesta estate near Halla in Sweden.

For more information contact Bob Youngberg, Henry Nyberg Society, 35 Fourth Ave., Arlington Heights, 11160005.

WALGREEN DRUGS
The first Swedish resident in Chicago was sea captain Olof Gottfrid Lange (1811-93) who worked in one of the city's pioneer drug stores. In 1901 Charles R Walgreen Sr. whose parents were Swedish, opened the doors to his first store at 4134 Cottage Grove Avenue in Chicago. Hundreds more were to follow and today his grandson can truly call himself "pharmacist to the nation". You can visit a replica of the original Walgreen store at Chicago's Museum of Science and Industry's "Yesterday's Main Street" filled with old fashioned products. You can also see a "Nottein' beats a malt at Walgreens" sodafountain here. Comedian Lucille Ball, who worked briefly in a New York city Walgreen soda fountain, liked to tell the story of why her stay at Walgreens was cut short: "I was fired for forgetting to put the bananas in a banana split!"
Museum of Science and Industry, 57th St. at Lake Shore Drive Phone 312-939-2438.

SWEDISH ORGANIZATIONS
In 1869, just 32 years after Chicago became a city, the Chicago Swedish Glee Club was organized "to promote fine choral performance, the perpetuation of Swedish music, and the fellowship found in music". In the beginning, only Swedish immigrants and their descendants were allowed memberships. Today the second oldest glee club in America invites "all men from a variety of multi-ethnic backgrounds whose interest and vocal skills prompt them to seek membership". Early members were also instrumental in starting the Swedish Club of Chicago where the singers used to meet. The American Union of Swedish Singers was formed in 1892. This jubilee year they publish their history. The organization also publishes the monthly Musiktidning and provides members with opportunities to sing with Swedish choruses from across the continent. The Glee Club has visited Sweden many times, twice on the invitation of the King. There are many other prominent Swedish organizations in the Chicago area, that coordinate their events through the Central Swedish Committee of Chicago. They issue a program folder quarterly which is an excellent way of keeping track of all Swedish events in the area.

The Central Swedish Committee of Chicago cloCarl E. Carlson, 2530 15th Avenue, Rockford, IL 61108-5704, Phone: (815) 397-0767. American Union of Swedish Singers' Executive Committee, clo Dan Olch, 245 W. Denver Drive, Des Plaines, IL 60018, Phone: (708) 298-4888

NORTH PARK COLLEGE
One of the first things you see when you approach the magnificent red-brick "Old Main" building, is a large sign that proclaims The Beginning of Wisdom Is the Fright Of God - in Swedish. Founded in 1891 by the Evangelical Covenant Church (Missionsförbundet), the North Park College and Theological Seminary is one of six important colleges in the USA with a Swedish origin and one of the top ten liberal arts colleges in the Midwest, according to U.S. News & World Report. In 16 buildings on 30 tree-lined acres on Chicago's North Side, some 1 100 students from 40 states and several foreign countries study a variety of academic subjects from accounting and music to Urban Studies and Youth Ministry. Professor Raymond Jarvi leads a Swedish language program and administers courses both at the college and at Vätterbygdens Folkhögskola in Sweden. The college also houses the Center for Scandinavian Studies and the Hugo A Anderson (of Atlantic Richfield fame) Chair of Scandinavian Studies, that have not only benefitted the undergraduates but the larger community as well. New Director Scott Eriksen is enthusiastic about the program of lectures, performances, art exhibits and demonstrations by outstanding Scandinavian artists, musicians, scholars, writers and politicians.

Within North Park you will also find archivist Tim Johnson of the Swedish American Archives of Greater Chicago and the Swedish-American Historical Society that records the achievements of the Swedish pioneers. He has just published a book on Chicagos Swedes together with Dag Blanck, with lots of interesting information.

Not far from the the college there's the Swedish Covenant Hospital and the Covenant Home that celebrated its centennial six years ago. Originally called a Home of Mercy it became a refuge for the orphan, the elderly and the sick. It was not an orphanage, nor an old people's home r a hospital but a curious blend of all three. Today it is a modern retirement center for 120 men and women. It is one of twelve retirement communities founded by the Evangelical Covenant Church that the Swedish immigrants built. Although the records of the home were kept in Swedish until 1926, it was open right from the start - just like the hospital and the college - for people of all nationalities and denominations.

North Park College & Center for Scandinavian Studies, 3225 West Foster Ave., Chicago, 11160625-4987, Phone 312583-2700. The Swedish American Archives of Greater Chicago & Swedish American Historical Society Inc., 5125 N. Spaulding Ave., Chicago, 111 60525. Chicago Covenant Home, 2725 West Foster Ave., Chicago, 11160625, Phone 312-878-8200 ext. 5012.

THE SWEDISH AMERICAN MUSEUM
Center was the brain-child of Kurt Mathiasson who runs the SVEA restaurant across the street. It started with an empty store for lease in Andersonville right at the beginning of the United States Bicentennial year 1976. Kurt's enthusiasm brought together a band of volunteers, including Chicago's "Grand Old Lady Sweden", Selma Jacobson who transformed the store into a make-shift museum just in time for King Carl XIV Gustaf to inaugurate it. Now the growing collection of the museum is housed in the Lind Hardware Building that has also become something of a Swedish community Center. Apart from the permanent collection, the 24 000 square feet center houses a museum store with Swedish products, a library, classrooms and a large well-lit space for exhibitions, performances and get-togethers. The center and its Executive Director Kerstin B Lane have become a resource for the Andersonville community also when they celebrate Midsummer, Leif Erickson Day, Lucia and Christmas.

The Swedish American Museum Center, 5211 N Clark St., Chicago, 11160640. Phone 312-728-8111. Open Tue-Fri I1 am4pm and Sat- Sun 11 am-3pm.

HERRING BREAKFAST
Every other Sunday the Swedish version of the Brunch, the "sillfrukost" is served in alternating clubs. The Swedish American Recreation Club is the host on the first Sunday of every month at the club house a stones throw from the Cubs Ballpark. The third sunday of the month it is the Viking Athletic Associations turn. The fried breaded herring is delicious and there is plenty more to eat at a very moderate allinclusive price. The herring breakfasts are popular get-togethers and a chance to get to know Chicago Swedes from all walks of life. There is usually a lottery and some spontaneous singing. This is also a chance to see the interiors of two of the remaining Swedish club houses in the city.

Swedish American Recreation Club, 3541 N. Clark St., Chicago. Viking Athletic Association Klubbhus, 5434 N. Ashland Ave., Chicago.

SERVICES
If you want to get your hair cut with a Swedish flair you can visit Gösta Götstedt from Strängnäs in Andersonville or slip down to Marianne Storkirk's salon in trendy River North. Gösta can tell you plenty about the famous heads he cut when he plyed the Atlantic as a barber on the Swedish America Line. You may have to wait your turn but it does not cost a lot in this West Foster barber shop that seems to have been designed by Norman Rockwell. Marianne Storkitk's-- 3 504
square feet salon boasts such celebrities as Oprah Winfrey among its clients. Marianne (whose father was the hairdresser to the Royal family and the owner of seven prestigious salons) has been one of Chicago's leading beauty experts for the last twenty years - so you pay a little extra for the hair design, make-up, manicure, pedicure and computer system that records your "vital data such as color and perm formulas, to provide consistent service". There are other Swedes who provide every other imaginable service from dentistry to plumbing. When it comes to service, Chicago is till very much Sweden's second largest city.

Marianne Strokirk's Salon, 361 West Chestnut at Orleans, Chicago, 11160610. Phone 312-944-4428.

PEHR PETERSON
has a lovely treed street and park named after him, for a very good reason. "Rose Hill Peterson" as he was popularly known was the first professional nursery man in the Mid-West and the first in the country to successfully move large trees. Most of the large trees in Chicago came from his 500 acre Rose Hill Nursery.

SHOPS
When you enter Erickson's Delicatessen or any other Swedish store in Chicago, you encounter not only all the Swedish products you have been looking for, but also an old-fashioned service and courtesy that you see less and less of in the old country. At Erickson's, Ann-marl Nilsson (with 20 years experience in the shop) and her daughters Ann-Britt and Mari-Ann will really make sure that you find "everything for the smbrgåsbord". Across the road at Wikstrom's Delicatessen there is a free cup of coffee while you pick out the goodies you want. At Sweden Shop I found more Swedish gift products than I have seen in any other similar store on the continent. There is a good selection of such items elsewhere in Andersonville not to mention the many Scandinavian-made products in general Chicago stores. Now there is even Scandinavian Antiques located in the brand new International Antiques Centre. So perhaps it does not matter so much that Chicago does not have an IKEA store yet.

Erickson's 5250 N. Clark St., Chicago, Ill 60640. Phone 312-561-5634. Wikstrom's Delicatessen 5247 N. Clark St., Chicago Ill 60640. Phone 312-275-6100.

Sweden Shop 3304 W Foster Ave., Chicago, 11160625. Phone 312-478-0327. Scandinavian Antiques, 2300 W. Diversey.

RESTAURANTS
More and more fast service restaurants claim that they serve "real food". That is exactly what the Swedish restaurants in Chicago serve, with little fanfare. The portions are generally large and wholesome. At Anne Sather's locations you order a full-meal deal for under $15. Starters include cottage cheese, homemade soup and chilled Swedish fruit soup. They have potato sausages, meatballs and turkey just to mention a few of the main course selections. There are cobblers and pies among the "sweet endings" choices and the coffee, tea or soft drink is included in the price! Service is fast in the "kurbits" blue cafeteria style restaurants. You can order "simply Swedish" Absolut Aquavit on the rocks for $ 3.50. Prices are as low at the two SVEA restaurants and you can order "a la carte" in Swedish from the sumptuous menu. The Swedish pancakes and the Stockholmare are really excellent.

Ann Sather Swedish Diners - Andersonville at 5207 N. Clark St. Phone 312-271-6677; - Lakeview at 929 W. Belmont Phone 312348-2378, -Hyde Park at 1329 E 57th St., Phone 947-9323 SVEA 15236 N. Clark St. Phone 312-334-9619, SVEA 113258 Foster Ave. Phone 312-539-9821.

AL CAPONE
became Chicago's undisputed political "boss" in 1927, when he took over from a most peculiar Swede Fred Lundin who came from the village of Lysinge between Omberg and Odeshbg in Ostergbtland. Fredrik left Sweden with his parents and a brother and sister when he was but eleven. Two years later he ended up being his mother's sole provider in the Chicago slum. He polished shoes and sold newspapers before he started manufacturing a Juniper Ale (EnWrsdricka -from an old non-alcoholic Swedish recipe) that he sold with much showmanship. Dressed in a wide-brimmed hat and spectacularly embroidered silk wests he crisscrossed the city in an old ox-drawn wagon led by a band of black musicians. In every way he made himself out as a simple-minded "square-head" Swede, while business boomed.

On the Christmas Eve of 1893 two drunk Irish policemen killed a newly arrived and similarily intoxicated Swede. Fred Lundin went into action. The policemen were not going to be charged even though the rampage had been carried out in their free time, but Fred managed, through protest meetings, to build up such a strong opinion against them that they were finally charged and convicted. After this victory and with Swedes as his platform, Fred built up a political machinery that soon took control of the whole of North and Northwestern Chicago. He never sought a political position, but delivered the votes to Republican candidates in exchange for jobs and favours. He continued to live with his mother in the same old house, receiving the rich and famous in the spartan kitchen after she had gone to bed. He only broke his anonymity once to get elected to Washington. His co-representative from Chicago was shortly afterwards forced to resign for taking bribes and Fred successfully took control of his politically machinery. In 1912 Fred Lundin offered the middle-aged playboy Big Bill Thompson the city of Chicago. Against every prediction this incompetent outsider was voted mayor in the 1915 and 1919 elections. Soon Fred controlled the Governor of Illinois as well androughly 100,000 jobs. All contractors bidding for city contracts had to join Lundins "Abraham Lincoln League" and pay him a percentage of their income. He rewarded all the bar owners that helped him during his campaigns with paid nonworking jobs as "Inspectors of Steam Machines". He married at fifty, became wealthier and wealthier, but maintained his anonymity. A thief who once stole a fur from Lundin rushed to the police to return it when he realised who it belonged to. Fred was once tried for bribery, but released as there was no evidence that could not be discredited by his lawyers. Mayor Thompson broke ties with him though and let Al Capone organise his 1927 victory. Fred Lundin had retired to California by then, but on his death in 1947 he was brought back to Chicago, and placed on a Lit de Parade. Throughout his illustrious career he always maintained that he was "just a poor Swede". Not quite wrote the New York Times in its obituary: "He had wielded more political power than any other individual in Illinois for nearly a decade".

And what happened to Al Capone? He was finaly arrested by the Swedish police officer Ed Ring at a street corner in nearby Rockford.